Much of the Central Highlands is a series of flat plateaux, mainly inhabited by various ethnic groups. Apart from Da Lat, the tourist guide books are somewhat dismissive of the area. Many remarkable sights and attractions are not even mentioned, probably because they are too far off the regular tourist routes. This is a blessing for Haivenu travellers because it provides an opportunity to visit one of Vietnam’s most fascinating areas without bumping into groups of tourists.

Still bears a passing resemblance to a French town, an impression that is diminishing as Vietnamese-style buildings proliferate. ‘Discovered’ by Dr. Alexandre Yersin at the end of the 19th century, Dalat grew into a large hill station attracting Western visitors seeking a refuge from the heat and humidity of the Mekong and the coastal plain.

Buon Ma Thuot lies about 190 km inland from Nha Trang. It is a large town in a coffee plantation area, but its main interest for visitors is the thirty or so ethnic groups in the area. It is warmer and more humid than Da Lat, with a rainy season from April to November.

Further north is Gia Lai Province and Pleiku town. Visitors can see the striking Phu Cuong waterfall, a single torrent plunging vertically into a seething cauldron of water and spray at its base. In complete contrast, Plei Bloum village (Jarai ethnic people) is a quiet settlement overlooking a broad, slow-moving river.

Another little-visited centre for ethnic groups is the area around Kon Tum, about 45km north of Gia Lai. Dozens of villages are home to a variety of ethnic groups. Visitors can stroll through ethnic communities, meet the people and experience their daily life. There are no beggars or other nuisances: even the children don’t cluster around or pester strangers. People are very friendly, and happy to welcome guests into their houses. Trekking and homestays are available.

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